Kings Canyon
We left Trephina Gorge bound for Kings Canyon. On our way back into Alice to once again restock our fridge and pantry we stopped to wander around Corroboree Rock. It wasn't explained why it was a special place for the local Arrernte people but its appearance alone lent itself to ceremony.
We Overnighted at the tiny desert campground of Henbury Meteorite Conservation Park a short way along the Ernest Giles road off the Stuart Highway. Flocks of budgies swarmed in the evening light and roosted as emerald jewels in nearby trees. The sun emerged from an overcast sky for a final half hour of brilliance as we huddled warm around a fire.
Our neighbours confirmed that the Ernest Giles Road was in good condition so we opted to take it as our route to Kings Canyon, shaving about 130km off the sealed Lasseter Highway route. It was a beautiful drive through red sand dune spinifex and desert oak country. We passed our first (live) wild camel, a huge dark beast, curious to see us pull up for a photo.
The Kings Canyon Resort topped our list of most expensive stays, it having a total monopoly on camping in the Watarrka National Park area. Based on average Wikicamps reviews and our general dislike for big caravan parks we approached our two nights there as a necessary evil. However, with spaced out unpowered sites, brand new facilities and a natural setting with great views, we were happy campers. We had galahs fill the small tree beside our camper, noisily taking their evening fill of mulga seeds and we were woken each morning to the clear bell-call of the pied butcher bird. We enjoyed a social moment at the sunset lookout with drinks and live music and took advantage of the bar and grill on our second night. Hugh learned the hard way that his eyes are bigger than his belly, finishing an impressive adult portion of the battered barramundi. All was well until 10pm that evening when he woke with a tummy ache and unhappily delivered his barramundi into a bucket.
Kings Canyon itself went straight into the top ten of our favourite places list. The Rim Walk is definitely my all-time favourite hike. It was spectacular. Every turn delivered something new. The sandstone Bungle Bungle-"esque" rock formations were like a giant three dimensional maze, there were wild flowers in bloom, a hidden waterhole, glacier-like crevasses and sheer cliff faces that made your legs wobble and your mind boggle. We did the shorter Kings Creek walk first which was enchanting and well curated with information and bronze sculptures of the smaller creatures that are at home in the desert oasis.
