Lake Argyle and Victoria River
We weren't quite done with Western Australia after all. From Keep River, we made a quick dash back across the border to see Lake Argyle. In order not to forfeit all our fruit and veg at the quarantine station, we left our trailer at the Keep River Ranger Station. The lake was much grander than I'd expected. In my initial planning I'd been prepared to give it a miss completely, dubious at the idea of an artificial reservoir. But I'm glad now that we made the effort. The expanse is really quite something and the sparkling blue against the dry hilly terrain is certainly eye catching. We took the kayak out for a paddle, bringing back memories of our Ningaloo days.
On our way back out we stopped in at the Durack homestead museum. The Duracks were a big pioneering family in the district and across the north east of Australia and one I was particularly interested in having read their family history in "Kings in Grass Castles". It was an excellent museum and I left inspired to learn more about two of the more contemporary Durack women Elizabeth and Mary. I also found, though not for the first time on our travels, that the Durack history and Lake Argyle itself raised confronting truths about the tragic clash of cultures between the Aboriginal people and our colonial pioneers. Again I feel inspired to learn more and to think deeper about our identity and place in this country and how we as a nation can reconcile our uncomfortable history.
After a long day, we recovered our abandoned trailer and crashed out at the not so charming Alan Kellet Rest Area. Road trains and gouldian finches careened my subconscious over a restless night.
Up early, we continued to track along the Victoria Highway towards Katherine and stopped at Bradshaw Bridge and Policeman's Lookout outside of Timber Creek to take in the mighty Victoria River. We drove to the top of the town lookout over Timber Creek where we learned about the "Nackeroos", a unit of unlucky soldiers, who defended northern Australia during WWII. Having failed to find a suitable free roadside stop, much to Matthias's disdain, we overnighted at the Victoria River Roadhouse Caravan Park, which as it was, was cheap as chips and much more pleasant than a disused gravel pit.
The following day we explored a small corner of Gregory National Park taking in the Escarpment and Joe Creek hikes. Both were hot work but gave us a great taste of the area and the local Aboriginal people's dreaming.
